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Curls are often seen as a mystery, unpredictable, beautiful, and sometimes stubborn. But there’s no magic behind your curl pattern. It’s pure science. And the more you understand it, the better you can care for your hair.
At LocksCurls.com, we believe that informed hair care is powerful hair care. When you know what your strands are made of, why they bend, coil, or frizz the way they do, and how moisture interacts with your cuticle, you’re no longer guessing but making intentional, effective choices.
This post breaks down what makes your hair curly in the first place, how biology affects texture and moisture, and why curl care is about so much more than just product selection. From the hair follicle to the cortex to the cuticle, we’ll walk through the science of textured hair and connect it directly to what you should be doing on wash day and beyond.
Let’s pull back the curtain and give your curls the science-based care they deserve.
What Determines Your Curl Pattern?
Your curl pattern isn’t random, it’s written in your biology. From the shape of your hair follicle to the way proteins in your hair bond together, every twist and coil is rooted in science.
1. Follicle Shape and Growth Angle
The shape of your hair follicle determines how your hair grows out of your scalp.
• Round follicles produce straight hair
• Oval follicles produce wavy hair
• Flat or elliptical follicles produce curly or coily hair
The angle at which hair emerges also plays a role. Hair that grows straight out tends to be straighter, while hair that grows at a sharper angle curls as it lengthens.
2. Protein Bonding in the Cortex
Inside each hair strand is the cortex, where keratin (a protein) chains are bonded together. The more uneven and asymmetrical the disulfide bonds are within the strand, the curlier your hair will be.
Curly and coily hair has more of these irregular bonds, causing the strand to bend, twist, and coil.
3. Genetics and Ethnicity
Your genetic makeup heavily influences follicle shape, strand structure, and curl pattern. This is why curl patterns often run in families or vary by ethnicity.
That said, no two curls are exactly alike, not even on the same head.
Genetics also influence other traits like density, porosity, strand thickness, and growth rate, all of which impact how your curls behave day-to-day.
Understanding these biological factors empowers you to care for your curls with intention, not trial and error.
Anatomy of a Curl Strand
To care for your curls properly, it helps to know what they’re made of. Each strand of hair is a complex, layered structure — and every layer plays a role in how your hair looks, feels, and responds to products.
1. The Cuticle, Your Hair’s Outer Armor
The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair strand, made up of overlapping cells that look like roof shingles. These cells protect the inner layers and control how easily moisture and products enter or leave your hair.
- When the cuticle is tight and flat, moisture stays in and hair appears shiny
• When the cuticle is raised or damaged, moisture escapes and hair becomes dry, dull, or frizzy
Curly and coily hair tends to have a naturally more open cuticle, which is why it loses moisture more quickly than straight hair.
2. The Cortex, Where Texture Lives
Beneath the cuticle is the cortex, the thickest layer of the strand. This is where keratin proteins and pigment live — and where your curl pattern, strength, and elasticity are determined.
The shape and structure of the cortex affect how much your hair curls and how well it holds moisture or color. When the cortex is healthy, curls bounce back and hold their shape beautifully.
3. The Medulla, Sometimes Present, Sometimes Not
The medulla is the innermost core of the strand. Not all hair types have one, and for many curl routines, it doesn’t play a major role. Still, it may influence thickness and the way hair responds to heavy products or heat.
Knowing how each layer functions helps explain why certain practices — like deep conditioning or sealing — make such a difference. You’re not just coating your curls. You’re working with your biology.
The Role of Porosity and Elasticity
Two of the most important factors in understanding how your curls behave — and what they need — are porosity and elasticity. These aren’t just hair buzzwords. They’re grounded in science and affect everything from how your hair absorbs moisture to how it responds to styling.
1. What is Porosity?
Porosity is your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. It’s influenced by the condition of your cuticle layer.
There are three porosity levels:
Low Porosity
• Cuticles are tightly packed
• Moisture has a hard time getting in, but once in, it stays
• Products tend to sit on the hair
Care tips: Use lightweight, water-based products and apply heat when deep conditioning to open the cuticle
Medium (Normal) Porosity
• Cuticles are looser but still intact
• Absorbs and retains moisture well
• Most products work without much adjustment
Care tips: Maintain balance and avoid overloading with heavy butters or protein
High Porosity
• Cuticles are raised or damaged
• Absorbs moisture quickly but loses it just as fast
• Often the result of damage from color, heat, or harsh chemicals
Care tips: Layer products to lock in moisture and use protein treatments to strengthen strands
2. What is Elasticity?
Elasticity measures how much your hair can stretch and return to its original shape without breaking. It reflects the health of the cortex and its protein-moisture balance.
- High elasticity: Healthy, springy curls that bounce back
• Low elasticity: Hair stretches but doesn’t return, or breaks easily
• Balanced elasticity: Indicates strong, hydrated hair
How to test it: Take a wet strand and gently stretch it. If it snaps quickly, it needs moisture. If it stretches too far and feels gummy, it needs protein.
Understanding both porosity and elasticity helps you choose products and treatments that meet your hair where it is — not where the label says it should be.
How Science Informs Better Hair Care
Understanding the biology of your hair changes how you approach your entire routine. Instead of guessing what your curls need, you begin to make targeted decisions based on how your hair actually functions — from the inside out.
1. Curl Creams and Porosity
If your hair is high-porosity, it absorbs moisture quickly but struggles to keep it. Rich curl creams and styling butters help seal that moisture in by creating a barrier over the cuticle.
Low-porosity hair, on the other hand, often prefers lighter, water-based moisturizers. Thick creams can sit on the surface and cause buildup instead of penetrating.
2. Protein Treatments and Elasticity
The elasticity of your hair depends on protein structures in the cortex. When curls lack bounce, feel weak, or stretch without returning, a protein treatment can help rebuild those structures.
But overdoing protein can make hair brittle. This is why balancing moisture and protein is critical — and why you should assess elasticity regularly.
3. Ingredient Function: Humectants, Emollients, Occlusives
Understanding what ingredients do helps you choose smarter.
- Humectants(like glycerin or honey) draw moisture into the hair
• Emollients(like oils or butters) soften and smooth the strand
• Occlusives (like beeswax or castor oil) lock moisture in and slow evaporation
Matching these to your porosity and environment (dry vs humid climates) leads to better results and less frustration.
4. Protective Styling and Moisture Retention
Science shows that friction, manipulation, and environmental exposure damage the cuticle. Protective styles reduce this, helping retain both moisture and length.
When combined with proper hydration and sealing methods, protective styles become more than a trend, they’re a science-backed strategy for preserving healthy curls.
Real-World Application: Building a Routine Based on Hair Biology
Knowing the science behind your hair is powerful, but how do you use that knowledge every day? This section walks you through how to build a customized curl routine based on porosity, elasticity, and structure and not just curl patterns.
1. Test Your Hair at Home
You don’t need a lab. You can learn a lot with these simple tests:
Porosity Test
Drop a clean strand of dry hair into a glass of water
• Sinks quickly = high porosity
• Floats for a while before sinking = normal
• Floats on top = low porosity
Elasticity Test
Stretch a wet strand gently
• Snaps quickly = needs moisture
• Stretches too much and breaks = needs protein
• Stretches and bounces back = healthy elasticity
2. Build a Basic Routine Using Science
Cleansing
• Low porosity: Clarify monthly to remove buildup
• High porosity: Use moisturizing cleansers to prevent dryness
Conditioning
• All hair types: Use slip-heavy conditioners to detangle and hydrate
• High porosity: Add weekly protein treatments
• Low porosity: Use heat to open the cuticle and boost penetration
Moisturizing
• Low porosity: Use lightweight hydrators and layer carefully
• High porosity: Heavier leave-ins and creams, sealed with oil
Styling
• Choose hold and texture based on elasticity and climate
• Consider film-forming ingredients (like flaxseed or aloe) to reduce frizz
3. Match Your Products to Hair Biology
Instead of buying based on curl type alone, look for ingredients that match your porosity and elasticity needs. For example:
- Aloe vera and panthenol hydrate low-porosity curls
• Rice protein, keratin, and amino acids help rebuild elasticity
• Shea butter and castor oil seal moisture into high-porosity hair
4. Stick With It and Reassess Regularly
Hair changes with seasons, hormones, and habits. Re-test porosity and elasticity every few months. Adjust your routine without overhauling everything at once. Let your results guide your next step.
Here is the Conclusion to your blog post:
The Science Behind Curl Patterns and Care
Download The Science-Backed Curl Care Checklist
Conclusion
Your curls aren’t unpredictable — they’re just misunderstood. When you learn the science behind your hair’s shape, moisture needs, and internal structure, everything starts to make sense.
You begin to see why a product works (or doesn’t), why your hair frizzes in one season and flourishes in another, and how to finally build a routine that supports long-term health — not just short-term styling.
At LocksCurls.com, we believe that empowered care starts with informed choices. You don’t have to follow every trend. You don’t need a shelf full of products. You just need knowledge, consistency, and the confidence to trust what your hair is telling you.
Ready to go deeper? Explore our product picks, curl charts, and care routines built for real curl patterns, real science, and real results.
Your curls are brilliant and now, you understand why.
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